Wed.26/9.

Sad morning as we all part ways today – Ian & Joan head back to Melbourne, Sue & Mike carry on touring around the east coast & we start the trek home. It has been such a good experience camping with the Listers for all these past weeks & it was great to catch up with Ian & Joan for the last few days. We are detouring on our way though & our first tour is down the Yorke Peninsula. Luckily the howling gale that is blowing is not straight at us & when we start south is almost behind us. Cuppa stop is at Ardrossan – a small coastal town on the east side of the peninsula. Very surprised at the number of small towns in South Australia that are historic, well kept & tidy & that appear to be quite prosperous – Ardrossan is another one of these. Most of these coastal towns have jetties because in the day of sail they were all used as ports for the wheat & wool. Stop at a couple of other similar towns along the way before setting up camp in Edithburgh. Caravan park is situated right on the sea front. In the afternoon go for a drive along the coast. The town has one of the few rock sea swimming pools right at the end of the main street. Wattle Point Wind Farm is close to town – we can actually see a couple of the turbines from our caravan - & we drive through the farm. There are over 50 turbines & they are quite an impressive sight. Take the gravel road stopping at a number of pull-ins overlooking the coast. Have a cuppa at the Troubridge Point Lighthouse which had views back over the wind farm & out over the coast. Meander our way through farming country back to the caravan park.

The Jetty at Ardrossan.

 

Rock Pool at Edithburgh.

 

Old & New  - Wattle Point Wind Farm.

 

 

Thur.27/9.

Tour of the “toes” of the peninsula today. Go straight to Marion Bay & into the Innes National Park. Walked down to the jetty at beautiful Stenhouse Bay. Gypsum was shipped out of here for many years & the workings can still be seen. Drive on into the park & stop a few times taking in the lovely scenery. Walk out to the Cape Spencer Lighthouse which had great views over the coast & to Kangaroo Island. Similar in many ways to Esperance with islands off the pretty bays. Stop at the ghost town of Inneston where the gypsum was mined & packed. A few of the old buildings had been renovated & turned into holiday rentals. Next stop West Cape where we took a lovely walk out to the lighthouse. Stunning views over the coast. Pondalowie Bay was our next stop. Great spot with a couple of islands just off the shore & waves crashing into the small cliffs. Another stop around the bay to a boardwalk that went through lovely sand dune country to a surfing beach. Head out of the park with a last stop at Ethel Beach overlooking the Ethel wreck. Out of the park we head north with a couple of quick visits to Point Annie & Corny Point. A great trip & so good to breathe so much sea air!

 

Stenhouse Bay.

 

Chinamans Hat Island - Innes National Park.

 

Renovated Post Office & a ruin in Inneston.

 

 

 

 

 

Mon.24/9.

Off touring the Valley today. First stop a lookout just outside town with beautiful views over farmland & vines. The canola looking stunning! Next stop was at Seven Hills Winery – the first winery in the valley established by the Jesuits. Beautiful old church (St.Aloysius) & cellar door. Have a taster of course – the Tokay is highly recommended. Short drive east of the valley to Mintaro with a couple of spots for shopping & sipping! Next stop is the old mining town of Burra. Have lunch by the creek & then a bit of a wander through the town centre. Again old well maintained buildings everywhere. Visit a cidery & of course sample the wine & cider which were all very good. Then have a look at the old copper mine which in its heyday was one of the largest & richest mines in the world. The old abandoned buildings were very reminiscent of Cornwall. Head back to Clare & stop at a brewery/winery. Much to the disappointment of the boys they can’t sample the beer – the wine was ok though. Visit another winery north of town – Mt.Surmon – situated high on the hill with stunning views over the valley & beyond.

(Poor Luca had his tonsils & adenoids out today – get better quickly!!)

 

View over the canola fields.

 

St.Aloysius Church. Seven Hills.

 

Magpie & Stump Hotel in Mintaro.

 

Tues.25/9.

Tour the other side of the Valley today. Start at Neagles Hill Lookout which involved a steep walk to the top of the hill. Lovely views over a valley. Carried on to Spring Gully Lookout – spectacular views over the farming country down on the plains. Have a very enjoyable cuppa taking in the beautiful scenery & watching many different birds in the trees. Back track to Eldredge Winery - quaint little cottage with lovely deck over a small lake. Try & buy some white port. Head south along the gravel road & then back on to the highway at Watervale & go on to Auburn. Another interesting historic town. Go for a quick walk looking at some of the old buildings & then have lunch in the park. Return to Clare along the highway stopping at Annie’s Lane Winery. Beautiful building set in lovely gardens. Finally wined & tasted out head for home. Do a quick shop for supplies for the next few days & then back to the pub for dinner.

 

Spring Gully Lookout.

 

Eldredge Winery.

 

Annie's Lane Winery at Quelltaler.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sat.22/9.

In the morning go out to Arkaroo Rock & take the walk up to some Aboriginal paintings on the rock. The paintings were disappointing but the walk was very good with lovely bush & views. Mike disturbed a flock of emus on the trail – who was more surprised? On way back to camp stop in at an art display in the old Wilpena Wool Shed. Lovely paintings of the area done by local artists. After lunch go out to Sacred Canyon & take the short walk up the canyon. Some Aboriginal art here too but it was more like signals showing there was a waterhole & food rather than art. Interesting walk though. Back along the pretty gravel road to Wilpena & stop & do the short walk to look at the solar panels that help to power the camp & resort.

Mike & Emus.

 

 

Grass tree on walk trail to Arkaroo Rock.

 

 

Sacred Canyon.

 

Sun.23/9.

Getting back into “civilisation” today & make our way to the Clare Valley. Go back through Hawker & then along the R.M.Williams Highway. Stop at Jamestown for a cuppa & then a short drive out of town and stop at the Bundaleer Forest. Take an interesting walk which goes through very English trees – all it needed were bluebells & you would have thought you were in England. Carry on towards Clare through lovely farming country which after the Gibber Plains & the other desolate countryside was just wonderful to see. Arrive in Clare & do the usual set up & visit the info centre. A very pretty town with lovely old stone houses & buildings. Go out to the pub for dinner.

 

Bundaleer Forest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thurs. 20/9.

Make our way into the Flinders Ranges today. Very pretty countryside around the towns of Quorn & Hawker which are picturesque with many old stone buildings. Pretty farming country on the plateau & surprising amount of vegetation. Road into the National Park very scenic with lots of native pines. Start seeing many emus & roos & have to be very vigilant driving. After the usual setting up & lunch go for a walk into the Pound. The caravan park is in a beautiful setting under trees next to the entrance to the pound & walking is the only way in. It was a great walk in along a good gravel road with bush all around. Take the high road in to the Hills Homestead inside the pound. Here we see feral goats, emus & kangaroos. Sue, Mike, Graeme & I go up to both of the Wangara lookouts which give a better idea & view of the pound – a crater like formation with only one wide entrance. It was used for grazing animals early last century as they could not escape the area. Good walk back along the creek with many different trees & bushes. Few drops of rain but not enough to get anything wet!

Walking Trail into Wilpena Pound.

 

Graeme dwarfed by Red River Gum in Wilpena Pound.

Fri. 21/9.

Off for an explore of the ranges today. First stop at Stokes Hill Lookout – spectacular 360 degree view. A relief map outlined the different ranges & hills we could see. Next stop at an old ruin – Appealinna – an old settlers house set alongside a creek. We then go down the Geological Trail that showed different areas of time in the rocks as we went along. Had a couple of stops & walks along creek beds looking at the rock formations. Drive a couple of kms. into Brachina Gorge & catch a glimpse of yellow footed rock wallabies. Go back & head south toward the Bunyeroo Gorge. Lovely countryside along the way & then the drive through the gorge very scenic. On the way back to Wilpena stop at a couple of lookouts with impressive views of the ranges & the spines of the hills we are crossing over. Again many emus & roos on the way to the camp site.

Is this really Aus?  Rock Formation along Geological Trail.

Brachina Gorge.

 

Emu in Brachina Gorge.

 

Flinders Ranges.

 

 

Mon.17/9.

Head further south today. The scenery quite desolate across the Gibber Plains. Very little vegetation. Stop at Woomera for the night. Go for a walk into the town & have a look in the museum. Interesting place. Outside there are old planes, missiles & other bits of military equipment. The town itself is very tidy however it is turning into a ghost town as the military has moved out. Such a pity as you get a real sense of community as you walk around.

(Bella’s birthday today – so sorry to have missed it!!)

 

Display Outside Woomera Museum.

 

Tues. 18/9 

Onto Port Augusta . Couple of lookouts along the way – overlooking Lake Hart & then one overlooking the Flinders Ranges. Mostly barren countryside again with a few patches of bush. Quite a few cattle & sheep a bit close to the road. Set up camp in Port Augusta & then the usual drive to acquaint ourselves with the town. It has changed a lot since our last visit – improved quite a bit & they have made some pretty areas along the waterfront. We see a couple of spots of rain!

 

View over Port Augusta.

 

Wed.19/9. 

Quiet day – wash, shop & organise. Mike puts his car in for a service. Ian & Joan arrive after lunch & while they settle in we go to the Lions Lookout – an old water tower that looks out over the town. Great views over the town & the ranges. Back to the caravan park & we all go out to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens. Only have time for one walk around the desert walk – fascinating plants & interesting plantings. A good spot to visit.

 

One of the beautiful plants in the Botanic Garden.

 

 

 

Fri.14/9.

Arrange a late check out of caravan park so can do the walk around Uluru before we leave. We start at the Kuniya walk & go anti-clockwise. Quite cool to begin with especially near the rock where the wind is blowing quite strongly. Wonderful walk being so close to the rock at times & at others walking through the bush. Get a real feel for the majesty, magic etc. of the place. Very interesting rock formations, patterns caves etc. etched into the rock & everywhere a photo opportunity. Go into the Kantju Gorge – almost a religious feel where you felt you had to whisper. Here there is a sheer rock wall where the water must cascade down when it rains & a permanent water hole at the bottom. Nearby are caves where once aboriginals would have sheltered. Everywhere there are unusual rock formations & above there is always the presence of the rock! Time runs out too quickly & we have to return & pick up the caravan & get back on the road. A very enjoyable visit & a most remarkable memory! Stop at Curtin Springs on the Lasseter Highway for lunch & then able to make it a short way down the Stuart Highway before stopping for the night at Kulgera. Little wildlife to be seen along the way except for crows & kites on road kill.

Cave in the rock - Uluru.

                                                   

Uluru.

 

Kantju Gorge.

 

Sat. 15/9

Into South Australia today. Scenery changed dramatically – lot sparser & few trees. The road however was pretty good. On approaching Coober Pedy the landscape becomes a moonscape – mounds of earth everywhere & not a tree to be seen! The town itself looks like a shanty town with little vegetation – a real dust bowl. Set up & do a bit of a tour of the town & visit a couple of opal shops.

 

Coober Pedy.

 

Sun. 16/9.

Do a bit more touring. Go to a couple of underground displays one of which was in a hotel. Remarkable buildings gouged out of the rock. The displays on fossils, mining etc. were very interesting. Was spoilt & bought an opal pendant necklace that was designed & made in Coober Pedy – very special! Go for a drive out to the Breakaways – a small cluster of hills made up of different coloured rocks - going through some very desolate countryside on the way. One spot glistened with many fragments of mica laying on the surface. There were a couple of lookouts with great views of the rock formations.

 

The Breakaways.

 

 

 

Thur. 13/9.

Off to the Olgas (Kata Tjuta) today. Lookout on way gives a good overall view of the formation. We tackle the Valley of the Winds walk 1^st. Soon realise how true its name is as the wind was very strong in a number of places. Great walk though & we make it to the 2cnd lookout but it is a bit far to do the complete circuit. The views from both of the lookouts were well worth the effort of the walk & climb to them – very speccy!! At the 2cnd a perentie (long lizard) walked along the side of the trail. Wonderful looking animal. Returned to the car & then after lunch take the next walk. This was the Walpa Gorge & was not so hard or as long. Just as speccy though – truly beautiful! Very difficult to capture the grandeur in a photo but it’s fun trying. The walk takes you to almost the end of the gorge with sheer walls on both sides. On the way back to camp see more camels ( or are they the same ones?). Go out to Uluru for another sunset viewing – so beautiful!

Olgas with desert oaks on the plain.

 

View from 2cnd lookout in the Valley of the Winds.

 

Perentie Lizard.

 

Walpa Gorge.

 

 

Wed. 12/9.

Off to Yulara today.  Long drive back to the Lasseter Hwy. & the road to Uluru. (Got my days mixed up yesterday as it was Mt. Connor we saw today on the road to Yulara). Onto Yulara & the caravan park. The settlement is very well done as it nestles into the dunes & bush. Go out to get our 1^st taste of the rock. On the way see a group
 of camels. Take the drive all the way around the rock – so impressive with its size, colour & sheer sides. Go for the walk at Kuniya which goes into the Mutitjulu Waterhole. Lovely walk where you capture a sense of the rocks grandeur. Make a quick stop at the cultural centre & then on to set up for the sunset. Rather surreal having a drink, eating nibblies & watching the rock change colour!

Camels at Uluru.

 

Kuniya Walk .

 

 

Graeme & I at the Mutitjulu Waterhole.

 

Sunset on the rock.

Mon. 10/9.

On the road again! Off to Kings Canyon today. Couple of stops along the way – one at the Finke River & another at a lookout over Mt. Connor which was a pretty speccy view. Going along the Lassiter Highway towards Yulara the scenery began to get a bit sparse. However the road into Kings Canyon was very pretty with rolling hills & the last part going along the range. Set up camp at the resort in time to get a walk in the canyon before tea. Good walk along Kings Creek into the canyon. Great views of the canyon’s walls which are very dramatic. Back at camp go for a sunset view of the range – the George Gill Range. On return to camp see a couple of dingoes wandering through the place.

                                                      Kings Canyon - sheer canyon walls!

                                           Sunset on the George Gill Range.

Tues. 11/9.

Tackle the big walk today around the rim of Kings Canyon (about 6km.). Begins with a steep climb to reach the top of the canyon with some spectacular views over the plain below. Amazed at the beehive/dome formations on the top.There are so many of them & you get to walk all around. Walk takes you to a few scary lookouts over the canyon with sheer drops to the valley floor. Very scenic though! Carry on to the Garden of Eden – a beautiful little creek valley with its own unique vegetation. A series of ladders & walkways leads you to the end where there is a waterhole at the bottom of a waterfall (not  flowing) which then drops down into the canyon below. Back to the walk which continues to impress with all the dome formations & speccy lookouts. Finally go along the outside of the canyon & back down to the car park.  A fantastic walk with continual spectacular views!!

                                                     Beehive rock formations.

                                                               Kings Canyon.

                                                               Garden of Eden.

                                               Waterfall at end of Kings Canyon.

Sat. 8/9.

Try to get into Ormiston Gorge again. Unfortunately can’t get any info over the phone & on arrival the road is still closed because of a bush fire. Decide to go to Redbank Gorge which is further west. Luckily the fires had been put out here but you could still see some burning trees. Another good walk down to the gorge & another blocked by water. The gorge is very narrow & the water action has made it very smooth. Along the way back see a few rock wallabies on the ledges of the gorge. Go on further west & onto gravel. Stop at a lookout overlooking Gosse Bluff the site of a meteorite hit millions of years ago. An amazing sight with the crater sitting high on the flat plain. We are able to take a 4 wheel drive road into the centre of the formation. Very interesting place. Head back to Alice along the Kings Canyon road through Hermannsberg – quite a bit of gravel. The mission at Hermannsberg is where Namatjira lived. Able to see a bit of the old mission buildings from the outside as it’s too late to go inside. Home for tea & watch Dockers beat Geelong!!!!

                                                              Redbank Gorge.

                                                   Rock Wallabies in Redbank Gorge.

                                                                      Gosse Bluff.

Sun. 9/9

Quiet day today of organising before moving on to Kings Canyon tomorrow. Went to the pancake breakfast organised by the caravan park which was quite good. Did go back to the cultural centre in town & had a look at the Aboriginal Art Exhibition – very interesting. Some were very good especially the dot paintings. The colours used were beautiful & a lot of work went into them. Also went to the aircraft exhibition which had a couple of interesting exhibitions. Bit of a shop after lunch & then watched the Eagles beat North Melbourne.

                                                                Bearded Dragon.

Fri. 7/9.

After putting the car in for a service we went out in Sue & Mike’s car to the closer gorges in the west macs. First stop Simpson’s Gap. Lovely walk down to the gorge but again water in entrance so can only see in a short distance. Go on to Standley Chasm – very commercialized & charge to go into the gorge. Quite a nice walk but at the end of the chasm there is a fence that stops you going any further into the gorge probably because it’s a bit dangerous but still a bit disappointing. Graeme & I try to get the perfect shot of a ghost gum against the red rock but never quite succeed! Back into town & able to pick the car up & go & have lunch at the old Telegraph Station. Nice picnic grounds & have a wander down to the Todd River & see the original “Alice Springs”.

                                                             Simpson's Gap.

                                                                Standley Chasm.

                                                  Ghost Gums in Standley Chasm.

                                             Old Telegraph Station. Alice Springs.